What is Selleys All Plastics, and where should you use it?

Selleys All Plastics is a two-part adhesive and primer system that bonds all plastics — including polyethylene, polypropylene and ABS, the three that ordinary super glues struggle with. You apply a coat of primer from a pen to each plastic surface, let it dry, then apply the adhesive. The result is a shock-resistant bond, which is what Selleys means by "a longer lasting fix": the joint tolerates being knocked rather than shattering at the glue line.

The point that decides whether this is the right product for you is the primer. Selleys states that All Plastics outperforms super glue on polyethylene and polypropylene when the primer is applied according to directions. Skip the primer on those plastics and you have an ordinary super glue joint on the two materials super glue is worst at. The primer is not an optional extra step.

Technical specification

Property	Typical result
Set time	30 seconds
Initial bond time	30 minutes
Max bond time	24 hours
Bond strength in tensile shear at 24hrs, using primer pen on both sides of substrate	2.9MPa on polypropylene 5.6MPa on polyethylene

Supplied as a tube and primer, 3mL. Indicative data only, not intended for the preparation of specifications.

What the key numbers mean in practice

Set time 30 seconds; initial bond 30 minutes; maximum bond 24 hours. These are three separate milestones and it pays to keep them apart. The 30 seconds is how long you hold the parts together until the adhesive grabs. The 30 minutes is when the joint has enough strength for practical use — putting the toy back in the toy box, screwing the remote's battery cover back on. The 24 hours is when the bond is at full strength, and that is the figure to work to before the joint carries any real stress.

The tensile shear figures are stated with the primer used on both sides. Selleys publishes 2.9MPa on polypropylene and 5.6MPa on polyethylene at 24 hours, and specifies those results were achieved using the primer pen on both sides of the substrate. That is the condition of the test, not a footnote. Priming one face and not the other is not the configuration those numbers describe.

Note also that polyethylene tests higher than polypropylene here. If you have a choice of which part of a repair to load, the polyethylene joint is the stronger of the two.

Where to use it

Selleys lists All Plastics as ideal for repairing:

• Toys
• Games
• Office items
• Remote controls
• Ornaments

It sticks all plastics, including polypropylene and polyethylene, and it will also bond plastic to non-plastic surfaces — metal, timber, china, rubber, leather and paper. That makes it useful for the mixed-material repairs that come up constantly around a house: a plastic clip onto a metal bracket, a plastic trim back onto a timber edge.

When you can skip the primer

Selleys gives one specific exception. Best results for nylon items (small car parts, for example), PVC and polystyrene are achieved without priming. Every other plastic surface should be primed before applying the adhesive. And primer must never go on a non-plastic surface — if you are bonding plastic to metal, prime the plastic face only.

How to apply it

1. Ensure the surfaces to be bonded are clean, dry, free of dust, and close fitting. "Close fitting" matters more here than most people expect — this system bonds a joint, it does not fill one.
2. Using the primer pen, apply one coat to each plastic surface to be bonded. If the primer pen appears dry, test it by drawing a line on a piece of paper — a wet mark should be evident. Do not use primer on non-plastic surfaces, and do not prime PVC.
3. Allow the primer to dry clear.
4. Pierce the seal at the end of the adhesive tube by attaching the nozzle and cap and turning clockwise.
5. Remove the cap and apply a small amount of glue to one surface only.
6. Bring the surfaces together and apply slight pressure until the adhesive grabs — about 30 seconds. Then allow at least 30 minutes for sufficient bond strength for practical use.
7. Wipe the tip of the tube, replace the cap and store upright in a dry, cold place. Make sure the cap on the primer pen is tightly closed.

Limitations — where All Plastics should not be used

• Not suitable for glass.
• Not suitable for foam.
• It will not work on PTFE (Teflon). This is the one plastic the primer system does not solve.
• It only works on some rubbers. Rubber is not a single material, and this adhesive does not bond all of them.
• Test first on leather or clear plastic. The adhesive may discolour clear plastic or cause leather to harden, so try an inconspicuous area before committing.

Do not use the primer on non-plastic surfaces. That is stated as a direction rather than a limitation, but it has the same practical force.

Clean up and storage

Uncured product may be removed with acetone. Cured product has to be sanded and scraped off, so it is worth cleaning squeeze-out immediately rather than trimming a hardened bead later. Take care with acetone on the item itself — it is a strong solvent and some plastics do not tolerate it.

After use, wipe the tip of the tube, replace the cap, and store the tube upright in a dry, cold place. Make sure the primer pen's cap is tightly closed, or the primer will dry out and the pen will stop delivering. The paper test in the directions exists precisely because a dried pen looks identical to a working one.

Hazard classification

Classified as hazardous under Safe Work Australia GHS 7, with the signal word Danger.

• Flammable liquids — Category 2. H225: highly flammable liquid and vapour.
• Eye damage/irritation — Category 2A. H319: causes serious eye irritation.
• Specific target organ toxicity, single exposure — Category 3, narcotic effects. H336: may cause drowsiness or dizziness.

What is in it

Chemical entity	CAS number	Proportion (w/w)
2-Propanol (isopropanol)	67-63-0	>60%
Non-hazardous or below reporting limits	—	Balance

These classifications belong to the primer, which is the flammable half of this two-step system. It is over 60% isopropanol, and its job is to activate the surface of polyethylene and polypropylene so that the cyanoacrylate adhesive can key to plastics that otherwise bond to almost nothing.

The adhesive itself is a cyanoacrylate, with the properties that implies: it bonds skin instantly, its vapour irritates eyes and airways, and it reacts strongly with cotton and wool.

Because the primer is a Category 2 flammable liquid, apply it away from ignition sources and let it flash off before you go near heat. In practice this product is often used on small repairs at a bench — a soldering iron or heat gun on the same bench is the hazard to think about.

Protection

• Gloves — nitrile rubber for intermittent contact; assess against your own conditions.
• Eye protection — chemical goggles or safety glasses.
• Ventilation — use only in a well-ventilated area, with local exhaust where available. Vapour is heavier than air and collects in hollows; do not work in a confined space.
• Clothing — wash hands before eating, drinking or smoking, and wash contaminated clothing before reuse.

First aid

Exposure	What to do
Eyes	Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes, removing contact lenses if present and easy to do, then keep rinsing. If irritation persists, get medical advice.
Skin	Wash with plenty of soap and water. Remove contaminated clothing and wash it before reuse. If irritation develops, get medical advice.
Inhalation	Move the person to fresh air, keep them at rest and warm. If effects persist, seek medical advice.
Swallowed	Do not induce vomiting. Rinse the mouth and seek medical advice immediately.

If poisoning occurs, contact a doctor or the Poisons Information Centre — 131 126 in Australia, 0800 764 766 in New Zealand — with the container to hand. Selleys emergency line: 1800 220 770 in Australia, 0800 220 770 in New Zealand.

Common questions about Selleys All Plastics

Will it really bond polyethylene and polypropylene?

Yes — that is what the primer system is for. Selleys states it outperforms super glue on polyethylene and polypropylene when the primer is applied according to directions, with published 24-hour tensile shear results of 5.6MPa on polyethylene and 2.9MPa on polypropylene using the primer on both sides.

Do I have to use the primer every time?

Not always. Best results on nylon, PVC and polystyrene are achieved without priming. All other plastic surfaces should be primed. Never apply primer to a non-plastic surface.

How long do I hold the parts together?

About 30 seconds, until the adhesive grabs.

When can I use the repaired item?

Allow at least 30 minutes for sufficient bond strength for practical use. Maximum bond strength is reached at 24 hours.

Will it work on Teflon?

No. It will not work on PTFE (Teflon).

Can I use it on glass?

No. It is not suitable for glass, and not suitable for foam either.

Can I bond plastic to metal or timber?

Yes. It will bond plastic to non-plastic surfaces including metal, timber, china, rubber, leather and paper. Prime the plastic side only.

Will it work on rubber?

Only on some rubbers. Selleys is explicit that the product works on some rubbers rather than all of them, so test before relying on it.

Will it mark leather or clear plastic?

It may discolour clear plastic or cause leather to harden. Test on a small hidden area first.

How do I know if the primer pen is still working?

Draw a line on a piece of paper. A wet mark should be evident. If it appears dry, the pen is not delivering primer.

Will it fill a gap in a broken part?

No. Surfaces must be close fitting. Clean, dry, dust-free and tightly mated is the condition this system needs.

How do I remove excess glue?

Uncured product comes off with acetone. Cured product must be sanded and scraped.

How should I store it?

Wipe the tube tip, replace the cap and store upright in a dry, cold place. Keep the primer pen's cap tightly closed.

All Plastics sits in the specialist glue range. For everyday close-fitting repairs on materials that do not need a primer, the super glue range is the simpler option.