What is Selleys Woodfilling Putty, and where should you use it?
Selleys Woodfilling Putty is a superior linseed oil based putty, specially tinted to a honey oak colour so that it blends in well with timber. It comes ready to use, has exceptional keeping qualities, and is tinted to blend in with most types of timber.
This product has been discontinued. Selleys directs anyone needing help to its Help & Advice team on 1300 555 205 (select Option 2) or to live chat during business hours. The information below is retained for people finishing a job with putty they already have. If you are choosing a product now, Selleys Special Putty is the linseed oil-based putty still listed for glazing timber frame windows and door panels.
Where this putty was used
- Filling nail holes and cracks in timber
- Glazing timber window frames and door panels
- Bedding glazing beads
The honey oak tint is what separated it from a plain glazing putty: a nail hole filled with it reads as timber rather than as a pale dot waiting to be painted.
How to fill nail holes and cracks
- Prime the timber and nail heads with an oil-based primer and leave to dry. This is not a decorative step. Bare timber draws the oil out of the putty, and putty starved of its oil hardens and fails early.
- Soften the putty in your fingers and apply it directly to the area, forcing the putty in well to ensure a complete fill. Smooth it over flush to the surface.
- For all exterior applications, or wherever you want a painted finish, paint the putty after application — the manufacturer gives 1 to 4 weeks in its directions and 2 to 4 weeks as the interval for best results.
- Apply an oil-based undercoat, then top coat with either oil or water-based paint.
The undercoat has to be oil-based. The top coat is where you have a choice.
How to glaze with it
Glazing has its own preparation, and the dimensions below are the part most often guessed at:
- Coat the window frame rebate and glazing beads with an oil-based primer to avoid loss of oil into the timber.
- The rebate and glass must be clean, dry, rigid, free from distortion, true and square.
- Position the glass so that a minimum 1.6mm clearance exists between the glass and the frame.
- Recommended rebate depths: 10mm for 3–4mm glass, 15mm for 5–8mm glass.
- Rebate width should allow for the recommended 12mm of front putty.
- Remove any surface skin from the putty before use and soften it with your fingers.
- Apply to the rear of the rebate.
- Install the glass, squeezing out putty to approximately 2mm between glass and frame. That 2mm bed is what the glass actually sits on; squeezing it out to nothing leaves glass bearing directly on timber.
- Fix the glass with pins and apply putty to face up the front.
- If using wooden glazing beads, apply additional putty in the rebate, then install the bead, squeezing out putty to approximately 2mm thickness between glass and bead.
Putty can be applied by hand or with a knife. A few drops of linseed oil on the hands or putty knife will make for easier working.
Limitations — where this putty should not be used
- Not suitable for use with heat absorbing glass.
- Bead glazing should be used for glass sizes over 1.25m².
- Not recommended for use with timber stains, timber oils or clear varnish finishes in exterior applications. These finishes do not provide sufficient protection from weathering, which can result in short service life of the putty, and frequent replacement may be necessary.
- Not recommended where structural movement may occur.
- Not recommended for use in metal framed windows.
- Do not use kerosene, turps or other material to aid in working the putty. The putty should be used as supplied.
- For glazing, New Zealand users must refer to NZS 4228 to ensure required compliance.
Two further warnings concern exposure rather than materials. Wind loadings in exposed areas, or on large areas of glass over 2m², may cause "pumping" of the putty — the glass flexes under wind pressure and works the putty loose. In those cases it is more appropriate to use an elastomeric sealant in place of putty. And the product should be painted to prevent deterioration; unpainted putty does not last outdoors.
Working with putty that has been stored
Oil may separate in large containers if stored for long periods. This needs to be worked back into the putty rather than poured off. Extreme variations in working temperature, or long storage under hot or cold conditions, can also change its properties — the fix is the same: work the putty up in your hands until it is smooth and pliable. Do not reach for a solvent; kerosene and turps are specifically ruled out.
Note also that high humidity, cold weather and interior applications can extend skinning times. If the putty has not skinned when you expected it to, the conditions are the likely reason, and painting it before it skins will not go well.
Clean up
Methylated spirits can aid in removing uncured product. Cured product can be removed by sanding.
Hazard classification
Selleys Woodfilling Putty is not classified as hazardous under the criteria of Safe Work Australia GHS 7. It carries no signal word and no hazard statements, and no poison schedule applies to it. It is not classified as Dangerous Goods under the Australian Code for the Transport of Dangerous Goods by Road & Rail or New Zealand NZS5433 either.
The safety data sheet lists the composition as 100% ingredients determined to be non-hazardous or below reporting limits — that is, there is no entry in the ingredients table at all. That is a definitive statement from the product's own documentation rather than an absence of information, and it is unusual enough across this range to be worth saying plainly.
The reason is the technology. This is a traditional linseed oil putty, and linseed oil is what gives it both its working character and its distinctive smell. There is no solvent system to classify and no reactive chemistry to cure — the putty hardens by the oil oxidising slowly in air, which is also why it skins rather than sets and why it needs to be painted to survive outdoors.
Not classified as hazardous does not mean there is nothing to attend to. The safety data sheet still asks that it be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place out of direct sunlight, away from foodstuffs and away from sources of heat and ignition, with the container kept closed when it is not in use. Wash your hands before eating, drinking or smoking. And an old, well-oxidised skin on the top of the tub is waste, not putty — take it off and discard it rather than working it into the job.
Common questions about Selleys Woodfilling Putty
Is it still available?
No. The product has been discontinued. Selleys' Help & Advice team can be reached on 1300 555 205 (select Option 2) or by live chat during business hours.
What colour is it?
It is tinted to a honey oak colour so it blends in with most types of timber.
Do I need to prime before filling nail holes?
Yes. Prime the timber and nail heads with an oil-based primer and let it dry, so the timber does not draw oil out of the putty.
When do I paint over it?
The directions give 1 to 4 weeks after application; the manufacturer's own tip specifies 2 to 4 weeks for best results. Use an oil-based undercoat, then either oil or water-based paint as a top coat.
How much clearance does the glass need?
A minimum of 1.6mm between the glass and the frame.
How deep should the rebate be?
10mm for 3–4mm glass, and 15mm for 5–8mm glass. The width should allow for the recommended 12mm of front putty.
How thick should the bed of putty be under the glass?
Approximately 2mm, squeezed out as you install the glass — and the same again between glass and bead if you are using wooden glazing beads.
Can I use it on a metal window frame?
No. It is not recommended for use in metal framed windows.
Can I use it with heat absorbing glass?
No, it is not suitable for that glass type.
What if the pane is large?
Bead glazing should be used for glass over 1.25m². On glass over 2m², or in wind-exposed positions, use an elastomeric sealant instead of putty to avoid pumping.
Can I thin it with turps if it is stiff?
No. Do not use kerosene, turps or any other material to aid working. Work the putty in your hands until it is smooth and pliable.
The oil has separated in the tin — is it ruined?
No. Work the oil back into the putty.
How do I clean up?
Methylated spirits removes uncured product. Cured product can be sanded off.
Is Selleys Woodfilling Putty still an active product?
No. The current Selleys Australia product page explicitly states that Selleys Woodfilling Putty has been discontinued. It is retained on the site for historical identification only and is not an active-product recommendation.
What sizes and colours was Selleys Woodfilling Putty available in?
Selleys Woodfilling Putty was supplied in a 450g tub in Honey Oak colour (product code 9300697118806, according to the knowledge base).
What was Selleys Woodfilling Putty used for?
It was designed for both interior and exterior use to restore the natural beauty of wooden surfaces by filling in cracks and holes for a smooth finish. Its primary applications were glazing wooden sashes (sealing and fixing glass in timber window frames) and stopping/filling nail holes and cracks in wood.
What is the core technology/ingredient behind Selleys Woodfilling Putty?
Selleys Woodfilling Putty is based on linseed oil technology, which acts as the primary binding agent, providing adhesion and durability and giving the product its characteristic putty odor.
How do you clean up Selleys Woodfilling Putty?
Methylated spirits can help remove uncured product, while cured product can be removed by sanding.
How should you apply Selleys Woodfilling Putty to fill nail holes and cracks?
First, prime the timber and nail heads with an oil-based primer and let it dry. Then soften the putty in your fingers and apply directly to the area, forcing it in well for a complete fill, and smooth it flush to the surface. For exterior applications or where a painted finish is wanted, paint the putty between 1 and 4 weeks after application, using an oil-based undercoat followed by an oil- or water-based top coat.
How is Selleys Woodfilling Putty used for glazing window frames?
The window frame rebate and glazing beads should first be coated with an oil-based primer. The rebate and glass must be clean, dry, rigid, and true and square, with a minimum 1.6mm clearance between glass and frame. Recommended rebate depths are 10mm for 3-4mm glass and 15mm for 5-8mm glass, with rebate width allowing for about 12mm of front putty. After removing any surface skin, soften the putty and apply it to the rear of the rebate, install the glass (squeezing putty to about 2mm thickness), fix the glass with pins, then apply putty to the front and install glazing beads similarly. Putty can be applied by hand or with a knife, and a few drops of linseed oil on the hands or knife make it easier to work.
What handy tips does Selleys give for working with the Woodfilling Putty?
Do not use kerosene, turps, or other materials to work the putty—it should be used as supplied. Extreme temperature variations or long storage in hot/cold conditions can affect its properties, which can be corrected by 'working up' the putty in the hands until smooth and pliable. Remove any product skin before use, and paint the putty between 2-4 weeks after application for best results, using an oil-based undercoat followed by a water- or oil-based top coat. High humidity, cold weather, and interior use can extend skinning times, and the product should be painted to prevent deterioration. Wind loadings on exposed or large glass areas (over 2m²) may cause 'pumping' of the putty, in which case an elastomeric sealant is more appropriate.
What are the limitations of Selleys Woodfilling Putty?
It is not suitable for use with heat-absorbing glass, and bead glazing should be used for glass sizes over 1.25m². It is not recommended for use with timber stains, timber oils, or clear varnish finishes in exterior applications, as these do not provide sufficient weather protection and may lead to a short service life requiring frequent replacement. Oil may separate in large containers if stored for long periods and needs to be worked back into the putty. It is not recommended for use where structural movement may occur or in metal-framed windows. New Zealand users must refer to NZS 4228 for glazing compliance.
Is Selleys Woodfilling Putty classified as hazardous or dangerous goods?
According to the knowledge base, Woodfilling Putty is not classified as hazardous under Safe Work Australia GHS 7 criteria and is not classified as dangerous goods for transport by road, rail, or any other transport method.